How can I find out what kind of shark I have?

Filed under shark by on March 5, 2010 at 9:34 am {5 comments}

I have bought a small black shark with a little bit of silver running along its side. I have no idea what kind it is and I need to know that where it hides all the time, if this is normal. I also have yet to actually see it eat. How do I know it is eating at all?

sounds like a pangassius shark (Irridescent Shark) if im not mistaken, does it have also greenish and grayish lines?? or does it have black and light gray lines?

it could also be a bala shark if it has light gray lines, like i said.

Bala Shark:

http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Shark,%20Bala.htm

Pangassius Shark:

http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Catfish,%20Pangassius.htm

How much does usually a an aquarium/tank of 400 gallons cost?

Filed under aquarium tank by on March 5, 2010 at 9:34 am {2 comments}

I am thinking the possibility of getting a bamboo shark
Also, can you please tell me possible dimensions of the tank/aquarium?

it’ll be about 450$ for just the tank and then the filter and all the other stuff, probably looking at close to 850. well plus the shark

Difference between a saltwater aquarium and freshwater?

Filed under saltwater aquarium by on March 5, 2010 at 9:33 am {6 comments}

I know one has salty water, the other doesn’t, but i was given a 20 gallon aquarium from my friend (with filter, etc..) and she told me it was a freshwater aquarium. What’s the difference between that and a saltwater one?

Honestly with a 20 gallon, not much. Usually a salt tank will run a protein skimmer not so much a filter, however, I have many salt and fresh tanks and my 30 gallon doesn’t have a skimmer. It has a whisper filter on it and gravel on the bottom. No fancy lighting no UV sterilizer nothing. Just a tank that could very easily be converted to fresh water.

Most people assume you need all this fancy equipment to have salt and you do not. It all boils down to what you are willing to take care of.

I find the 30 with the whisper is easier to clean since the filter is pulling the uneaten foods and debris from the water.

Advanced salt hobbiest have "upgraded" or different types of equipment since it makes the tank more self sufficient for the fish, inverts and corals.

In short: a tank, filter, heater, lights, salt, water and gravel this is for a salt tank

a Tank, filter, heater, lights, water and gravel this is for a fresh.

The tank you have can be used for salt as well.

What kind of aquarium do you need for sea horses?

Filed under aquarium by on March 5, 2010 at 9:33 am {7 comments}

I just love those little fellas, they are my favorite, aquatic creature. Has anyone here tried keeping them in an aquarium? What’s that like? Do they do well in captivity?

The tank setup you will need will depend on the variety of seahorse you get. Some do best in as small as 3-5 gallons while others need larger depending on their size. You don’t want too large, as it can become difficult for them to find food (although you can always spot-feed with a baster). A larger tank is easier to maintain their water quality, but it can be more difficult to see small seahorses in an oversized tank.

They aren’t the easiest of animals to keep, particularly if you’ve never had a marine tank before. I would suggest starting with other marine fish to get about a year’s experience before you try seahorses. And the seahorses will do better if kept in a species tank with just other seahorse (or pipefish) and slower-moving invertebrates (snails, hermit crabs) as faster animals tend to get to food before the seahorse do.

How well they do in captivity is a function of the source (captive bred have a much higher survival rate than wild caught, and the captive bred are typically already trained to accept frozen, rather than live foods – the pygmy seahorse is the exception here, you would need to maintain a supply of live brine shrimp which you enrich by feeding them a special food before feeding them to the seahorses).

Definitely do some research on these before you try to keep them. Some websites that can assist you: http://www.seahorse.org/

http://www.seahorsesource.com/about.html

http://www.seahorse.com/Aquarium_Life/Aquarium_Life/Getting_Started/

And please buy captive bred seahorses from a reputable dealer if you decide to try them.

What can I do with extra 50 gal aquariums?

Filed under aquariums by on March 5, 2010 at 9:23 am {2 comments}

I have two extra 50 gal aquariums that are unfit to hold water. Any ideas on how to turn them into mini ecosystems?

You can give them to someone for reptile habitats.

What would you rate my discus skill level?

Filed under discus by on March 3, 2010 at 10:39 am {5 comments}

This is purely to find out what kind of discus I should buy. I am a senior in high school and threw 125 feet standing and 130 feet on a poor form spin last meet. I expect to improve greatly during the season. For experienced throwers only: what would you say my skill level is? Beginner, intermediate, or advanced?

I’m guessing the real reason is to figure out what type of discus to use. The rim weighting on a discus has to do with physics. The more spin you put on the discus at release the higher the rim weighting you should use. Because the high spin allows the discus to carve a better aerodymic path through the air, you want a discus that will continue spinning and the more the weight is to the outside if the discus the more it will continue to spin. But, if you don’t get much spin or your discus isn’t released smoothly and evenly (pretty parallel relative to the ground), a discus with the weight on the outside will make this worse (because you’re acting on the largest mass in the object). For these throwers, a discus with a more even, or a more centered weight is better. And throwers who aren’t yet consistent use something in-between. Generally, experienced thowers know how to impart good spin and a flat aspect to the wind. To find out how much spin you have try painting half of one of your rubber disks white. It will seem to flash. But just throwing far doesn’t mean you’ll benefit from a high-rim-weight and not throwing far but having a high spin rate and good release still means you WILL benefit from high-rim weighting.

Can i keep a school of tiger barbs with Malawian Cichlids?

Filed under cichlids by on March 3, 2010 at 10:39 am {7 comments}

I have a 29 gallon tank, with a few malawian cichlids, will the cichlids bother the barbs, or will the barbs bother the cichlids.

Can i keep these fish together.

I wouldn’t put them together.Most Malawi cichlids tend to be very aggressive and would probably harm or even kill the barbs.Depending on what types of Malawi you have you may already be at the stocking limit for your tank or even need to upgrade to a larger one.

Why male guppies (wild ones) become fat and develop a tummy with beautiful Blue green colouration?

Filed under guppies by on March 3, 2010 at 10:39 am {one comment}

The question is from India where guppies are used for malaria control.

I am a guppy breeder.

This is not observed in guppies kept in aquarium.
They do not breed.

It may the the habitat they live in and the food they get.

As a guppy lover I had observed these type of male fat guppies in our house’s main water tank also.

It was a huge 6′ broad 8′ long and 10′ deep water tank where water from the local municipal corporation used to come continuously and the tank walls were straight. No shallow portions anywhere in the tank. People used to dip the bucket and take away the water. Every time somebody comes near tank guppies used to dive down and come again near the surface after sometime.

Here the walls of the tank had velvetlike algae growing on it which was consumed by the fishes.

Many a time chlorinated water used to come. Guppies always survived.

Here the big males were observed. As you described they had fat bodies swollen in the middle and used to look like gravid females.

I used to keep them in small jars and buckets expecting that they will give the colourful babies. The fins used show they are males and the result used to be no babies. some them used become normal after somedays.

May be it was food or the depth of tank which was making males also become fat.

Probably the thin bodied males find it difficult to dive down few feet every now and then and come up to the surface, where as females were more successful and less strained because of the body shape.

Not observed this type of males in shallow tanks less than 3 feet deep.

I need a really good aquarium fish supplies website.?

Filed under aquarium supplies by on March 3, 2010 at 10:38 am {3 comments}

who has cheep prices. Im getting a tank for dwarf seahorses so i need a 5 gallon tank, if you know of a website that has cheap 5 gallon glass tanks, please post here.

To answer your direct question, a good website to buy fish supplies from is http://petguys.com/fish-stuff.html Their salt mixes are cheaper sold than any of my local fish stores, and they sell all the little extra things you’ll need for the aquarium, like heaters and medicines and decorations etc.

To answer your indirect question, You might want to reconsider the five gallon tank size. Sea horses are delicate, and it’s easier to maintain stable aquarium levels with a larger tank. The website I link to below says that a twenty gallon tank with live rock in it has worked better for them and not only do their seahorses stay alive, they also breed.

Here is the website. It talks about dwarf seahorse keeping and all of the supplies you will need to buy to successfully keep them. For some of the products, it even links you to the page where you can buy them cheapest. http://home.pacbell.net/powerfx/html/setupdetail.htm There are a lot of good pictures on that website, too. :) Good luck with your seahorses and don’t forget to cycle your tank before you put them in.

Update: After doing more research, I encountered a website that encourages you to keep your seahorses in smaller containers, not large ones. Website: http://www.syngnathid.org/articles/dwarfKeeping.html I think that this person is genuinely trying to help you with this advice, but that the first website I listed was better because in my own experience larger less stocked tanks are stabler than smaller overstocked tanks. This is the person from the first website’s reasoning for using a twenty gallon tank instead of a small bowl:

"I also added larger Cell-Pore sculpted rocks to the main tank for added bacteria colonies. This is almost over-kill for the 20-gallon tank but it will definitely be very stable with the included power head for proper water circulation.. Currently, I am preparing to lace the 20 gallon tank with some Amphipods (Grammarus) and algae from my six gallon. Hopefully, the tank will fill up with algae and Amphipods (Grammarus), which will provide a natural live food source for my horses. I think the trick to my method will be in keeping the Amphipods (Grammarus) one step ahead of the horses. That is why I am using such a large tank for dwarf horses. My theory is that if I place a reasonable number of horses in the tank (6-8) then they won’t be able to eat the Amphipods (Grammarus) down. The tank is so large that the Amphipods (Grammarus) will be able to reproduce and fill the tank at a rate that will allow constant grazing for the horses. If this works out well then only an occasional treat of brine shrimp will be required. I will also keep my six-gallon working as it is now – for the Amphipods (Grammarus) in case I need more for the horses.

I know many people recommend small tanks for the dwarfs for fear that their food will dissipate in the tank and be hard to find for the dwarfs. I think this only applies when the tank is relatively empty of food and then the food is added a couple of times throughout the day. Then it stands to reasons that the food would dissipate throughout the tank. But in nature the horses are constantly grazing the grass beds looking for the small creatures that live within the green algae leaves. I am trying to recreate this and hopefully the amount of Amphipods (Grammarus) will be large enough to provide the desired effect. Also, I must mention that I am planning to feed the Amphipods (Grammarus) daily with an invertebrate particle liquid mix. I will squirt a small amount in the tank every day. With the six gallon I used yeast, and fish fry liquid food with great success so I think the only think that is important is to feed the Amphipods (Grammarus) with health food so that the horses will get the nutrients second hand."

How can I tell if a great white shark tooth is real?

Filed under shark by on March 3, 2010 at 10:38 am {3 comments}

(sorry if this is in the wrong section)
I want to buy my boyfriend a great white shark tooth necklace for his birthday.
I’ve been looking at different necklaces on eBay and I really want to know if there’s any specific way to tell if they’re real or not, because I see some in the price ranges of $20-50 dollars and then it skips to like $500 and they look the same to me!

Well your not going to find a great white tooth smaller than an inch long, unless it was a baby tooth. Great white sharks are also the only sharks that have almost perfect isosceles triangular teeth with saw indents up both sides. If you posted a picture I would be able to tell you what kind of shark the tooth came from. Let me know if I can help so you don’t get ripped off.

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